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An Introduction to Mandarin
Rat Snakes
Mandarin Rat Snakes are found
mostly in the mountains of south China. They
can also be found in the mountain forests of Burma, Vietnam, and
Taiwan. They are arguably the most beautiful and most sought
after snake kept in captivity. Just looking
at these awesome beauties you get a sense of their prestige and
mystique. Their facial markings
resemble an oriental style painted porcelain mask. Even their name "Mandarin" commands
honor; a Mandarin is a person of very high rank in the Chinese Empire. As little
as 10 years ago, Mandarins were practically unheard of in the reptile hobby, but
as each year passes they continue to get more and more popular with keepers. These
majestic little snakes are the
"crown jewel" of any collection.
Here's a couple of my adults and their babies.
Captive Care
Caging
Mandarins are shy, secretive
snakes so their caging should be set up with this in mind. They do best when
provided with ample hiding places and preferably some type of substrate which
will provide for their tunneling habits. I use a 2-3 inch deep layer of aspen
mulch. The aspen mulch holds the shape of their tunnels, unlike some of the
other mulch products which the snakes literally have to crawl through. I've
noticed mine just laying in their tunnels for large portions of the day. I also
provide my Mandarins with a bowl filled with moist sphagnum moss. They lay in
the moist moss bowls for hours at a time just about every day. In addition to
the moist moss bowl, I also mist their cages with a spray bottle a few times a
week.
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Photos of 2 types of set-up; one
using aspen mulch for burrowing, the other using paper, which is
cheap and easy to clean. With both set-ups, always offer a damp moss
bowl (moss removed for photo on left), and when using mulch, use a feeding dish.
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Temperature
Mandarins have a reputation of being a cool/cold temperature species, earned
mostly from the need to keep wild caught imports in the 65-75 degree range.
The truth is captive born & bred mandarins do fine with temperatures
into the low-mid 80's. I keep mine in my heated snake room which hits 85+
during the afternoon hours and 78-80 at night. If you're not using a whole
room heated just for reptiles, then you can successfully keep them at room
temperatures ranging from 70-80 degrees. They are said to be able to thrive
at temperatures as low as 65 degrees!
Feeding I feed my
Mandarins live food. There are two reason why I do this. First, Mandarins
are incredibly shy and most will not take frozen/thawed or fresh-killed food
from forceps. Second, they seem to prefer small food items, and also feeders
that don't run around, they will become intimidated and hide, refusing to
eat. The perfect solution to these feeding quirks is to put one or more
fuzzies or crawlers (which do not pose any threat of rodent bites to your
snake) in a bowl and leave it in their cage overnight.
Breeding Breeding
Mandarins is fairly basic, I approach them the same as I do for Corn Snakes.
In the fall, about 2-3 weeks after ceasing their feeding, I start cooling
them with their temperatures eventually reaching 50-60 degrees. I'll keep
them at these temperatures for about 8-10 weeks at which point I'll start to
slowly bring them back up to normal. Once they've reach normal temperatures
I start feeding them. After about 4-6 feedings I put the males and females
together and keep them together until I notice the females looking full of
eggs ( I still separate & feed every week during this time). This may
take 1-3 months depending on how soon after the initial introduction they
start mating. They tend to mate in their hiding areas, not out in the open
like many other colubrid species, which makes it a little difficult to
monitor their breeding activities.
Once the eggs are laid (4-6 seems to be average)
I incubate at my snake room temperatures of 80-84 daytime with a night time
drop to 78-80. Anytime I have eggs incubating I keep the snake room
temperatures from exceeding 84 degrees. Mandarins have fairly short
incubation lengths, about 40-45 days. The babies are pretty thick-bodied and
hardy. They'll usually feed on pinky mice after their first shed without
hesitation.


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